Thailand for everyone: Land of Smiles serves up a warm welcome as new wave of holidaymakers enjoy the Far East

By JO TWEEDY

Palms and privacy: In Pai Plong Bay, the Grand Centara resort can only be reached by boat or across a narrow headland


Tourism in the 'Land of Smiles' has played out a little like a Thai boxing match in recent decades.

From the red corner, Mother Nature dished out the early sucker punches: teetering limestone formations, idyllic islands, soft-sand moon-shaped beaches, star-studded black skies, scents of coriander and whistling crickets. A true scenic KO.

And then came along the holiday industry, jabbing against this blank canvas of beauty with sprawling developments and outlets of Tesco and Häagen-Dazs. Put simply, tourism in Thailand has gone stratospheric.

Mythical tales of moon parties on secret islands ignited the backpacker trail in the Seventies and over three decades (and Leonardo DiCaprio's starring role in The Beach) later, the hundreds turned into thousands and now around a million Brits every year fly the 11 and a half hours east to enjoy hot, humid days, curries infused with lemongrass and vermilion sunsets.

The country's multi-million pound tourism industry temporarily faltered earlier this year when an initially peaceful protest by Red Shirts - against the government's refusal to call an election after the ousting of former Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra - deteriorated into a violent stand-off which claimed almost 100 lives and was played out on the world's television screens.

However, a real, visceral dependence on tourism - lifeblood isn't too strong a word - means that the bounce-back has been quick. With many of the major resorts completely unaffected, word of mouth and good deals have ensured bookings remained robust, says the UK Thailand tourism office.

'Thailand is back to normal in terms of tourism numbers,' says spokesperson Joanna Cooke. 'In fact, the first half of 2010 was up by 4.7 per cent. I think the fact that the country is such good value for money in terms of packages helped.'


Luxurious rooms including generous bathrooms and comfy beds offer welcome cool from the temperatures outside


At the plush Centara Grand Beach Resort and Villas, a luxury hideaway on the Andaman Sea, 20km from holiday hotspot Krabi, the modern face of tourism in Thailand has little to do with independent travel.

'My daughter backpacked around here two years ago and said "Mum, you’ve got to go", so here we are.' A fellow passenger explained as we bounced over the ocean in the shuttle boat that takes guests from the twinkling tourist strip near the beachfront of Ao Nang around a headland and into secluded Pai Plong Bay.

The opulent vista that met us - elegant chocolate and cream-coloured villas with green roofs overlooking a landscaped garden and a lavish pool area - would leave a gap year traveller weeping into their wallet. I couldn't help thinking that there might not be much common cud on which mother and daughter could chew upon her return.


Guests at Centara Grand can choose between the luxury pool or a dip in the waters of Pai Plong bay. Right, spot monkeys on the narrow path that connects the bay with the busier resort town of Ao Nang


The 192-room Centara Grand resort was carved into the lush National Park of Pai Plong in 2006 with permission from the Thai Government. It is sympathetically done and much of the accommodation is camouflaged among foliage that includes soaring palms, coconut trees and a rainbow of tropical plants.

The jungle setting eventually gives way to rising hunks of creamy limestone cliffs that are tinged with amber and topped with more greenery. Beyond the 500-metre stretch of beach, there's wrinkling ocean and hints of far-away isles. A permanent jetty was deemed a blot too far and instead a floating plastic pavement wobbles guests to and from boats.

With evening temperatures pushing the mercury up to around 30°, our room, all dark wood, crisp white bed linen and whirling fans proved an instant salve.

Wall-to-ceiling blinds, doors with built-in mosquito nets and a huge bathroom complete with deep tub and two showers were among the treasures unearthed as we explored. Outside, a private balcony with two loungers, a chaise longue and a (not quite but very nearly) sea view.

Some of the rooms boast hot tubs on the balcony too, which, with that elusive ocean panoramic, easily puts the resort into honeymoon territory.

Our visit fell during the school holidays and for every doe-eyed couple, there was a family to match them. With major European operators offering packages here, guests probably learn more about their fellow Brits than Thailand. Aside from a few German and Scandinavian travellers, our neighbours at breakfast hailed mostly from around the UK.


Safe and family-friendly, the resort of Ao Nang is a big hit with British tourists


Centara Grand is exactly as a luxury resort should be though. The days dissolved in a restful haze of swimming - there are two pools, one large, one smaller – and reading free copies of the Bangkok Post while trying to chase the shade. For much of the year, temperatures hurdle the 30° mark and we witnessed a few fair English skins pricking and sizzling.

With four restaurants, a late-night bar and a live-band gently strumming guitars, there's little reason to leave this well of loveliness - except that your pockets might be burning by the end of a week. Prices are pegged to western rates and a meal for two with wine in Hagi, the resort's sushi restaurant, will set you back around £70 for two including wine.

The alternative night out is to head to the beachfront at nearby Ao Nang. With the shuttle boat only running at intervals, traversing the headland - home to an audacious-looking band of monkeys - on foot is the easiest way to pierce through the Centara Grand bubblewrap and explore further afield.

The main tourist strip in the province of Krabi, Ao Nang bristles with neon-lit shop fronts, bars and restaurants. Catering for holidaymakers has drained resorts like these of much of the exoticism. Big brands - Burger King, 7 Eleven and those golden arches - jostle for space alongside souvenir stores, tailors, bars, restaurants, tattooists and massage parlours. Scooter taxis line the main road, some souped up-with big noise stereos, others barely creaking into life, and street stalls sell everything from spring rolls to cheeseburgers.

Ao Nang isn’t a sophisticated resort - it’s Thailand’s take on what Spanish and Greek island package holiday resorts have been serving up for decades. It is relaxed and family-friendly though.

For all the international menus, Thai food remains the cheapest and most delicious thing to eat. The staple green curry or Pad Thai (noodles and stir-fried meat or seafood) will set you back around 200baht (around £4) with a Singha or Chang beer costing around 100baht (£2).

For the best of Ao Nang, head to the quieter, eastern end of the beach where the bars and restaurants are more spacious or to the seafood eateries at the west end. A freshly hooked sea bream laced with chilli, lime and garlic and a small mountain of steaming rice will set you back around £5 - an absolute bargain.

There is travel and then there are holidays and the most intrepid visitors to Thailand have long since found new haunts. The lush, green jungles of the country's north are quieter and beyond them Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos will no doubt experience their own tourism dilemmas as visitor figures swell.

For those who simply want to kick back, cocktail en main and enjoy Mother Nature's still stunning handiwork in comfort, Centara Grand and Ao Nang are ready to welcome you.


Travel facts
Virgin Holidays offer eight nights at the Centara Grand Beach Resort & Villa including scheduled flights with Eva Air from London Gatwick to Krabi from £1119 for travel in May 2010. Prices are on a bed and breakfast basis and are based on two people sharing a deluxe ocean facing room. Transfers are also included.

To book, visit www.virginholidays.co.uk or call 0844 557 3859.
Access to Virgin's V ROOM lounge at Gatwick Airport costs £17 for adults and £10 for children.


source: dailymail